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Old 07-15-2005   #11
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Well, it might not be the same type racing, but if anyone wants to build a destruction derby car, let me know. I'll be happy to try and help.
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Old 07-22-2005   #12
 
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Dynastar was asking me about twin sequential turbo setups in the chatroom, and I realized that it was an aspect that I didn't fully explain in my last post so hopefull I can clear it up here.

The main principle of this system is to be able to route engine exhaust through one or both turbo(s) in the most efficient manner possible, in order to achieve useful boost at both low and high loads.

At low engine RPM and load, all engine exhaust is routed through the #1 turbine in order to have boost at low rpms; this is called single mode. As engine load and RPM increase, the system will bring the #2 turbo online in a controlled manner, so there is no shock to the turbo or the engine, nor (in theory) any spikes or flat spots in the engine torque curve. This is known as the transition mode. Finally when both turbo’s are online and boosting in parallel, this is called true twin turbo mode.

There are 4 sets of VSV's (Vacuum Solenoid Valve), actuators, and control valves for the STTS. Each VSV allows stored air from a small accumulator (pressure tank) to pass to, or bleed from the actuators. Each of the 4 control valves has an air operated actuator, and an ECU controlled VSV. Two of the control valves, the EGCV and IACV, have only two positions, either open or shut as their VSV’s are controlled by On/Off signals from the ECU, while the other two, the EBV and WG, can be controlled to any position between 0 and 100%, as their VSV’s are operated by PWM duty cycle signals from the ECU.

Following is a definition and description for each control valve:

Wastegate (WG):
This normally closed valve is located in a “Tee” of the engine exhaust, before the turbocharger turbines. When the WG is closed, all engine exhaust must pass through the turbo(s) to exit. When the WG is open, some exhaust can “escape” before the turbo(s) and will exit directly into the downpipe, cat’s, etc. There is a control line connected directly from the turbochargers’ compressor discharge to the WG actuator, so whatever boost pressure is being made by the turbo(s) will be sent to the WG actuator. As boost pressure rises, so will the pressure in this line, which causes the WG to open. As exhaust energy “escapes” by the opening of the WG, the turbo’s will slow down, and boost pressure will fall, which will cause the control line pressure to fall, and the WG to begin closing. By this inverse proportional action, the WG can control boost mechanically.

Mounted in the control line between the turbo’s and the WG, is the WG VSV. When this VSV is duty cycled by the ECU, it acts as a “bleeder” and reduces the pressure in the control line, which keeps the WG closed longer. The higher the duty cycle of the WG VSV, the more delayed the opening of the WG and the higher the boost. If the WG VSV should fail, it will close and the WG will receive full manifold pressure, which will open it much sooner, reducing boost pressure. The configuration of this VSV in “bleeder” mode is also known as a “fail-safe” configuration.

Exhaust gas Bypass Valve (EBV):
This normally closed valve is located downstream of both the #1 and #2 turbines, but before the EGCV. At about 3500 rpm, the ECU “duty cycles” the VSV for this valve causing it to open gradually. Normally, the exhaust from the #2 turbine is blocked by the closed EGCV, so when the EBV opens, there is now a path for a small amount of exhaust gas to flow through the #2 turbine and exit, this allows the #2 turbine to “prespool”. This “prespool” smoothes the transition from 1 to 2 turbos, and cushions the shock of the EGCV opening. The EBV valve is sometimes confused for a wastegate, but it is located after the turbine wheels instead of in front of them, so it is not a 2nd wastegate.

Exhaust Gas Control Valve (EGCV):
This normally closed valve is located in the #2 turbine exhaust discharge piping, and it serves to block the exhaust flow through the #2 turbine. When this valve is closed, all exhaust flow must pass through the #1 turbine. At about 4000 rpm, and after the EBV has opened, the ECU energises the EGCV VSV to open the EGCV. This unblocks the discharge from the #2 turbine so exhaust gas can now flow unrestricted through the #2 turbine and out the exhaust system. This brings the #2 turbo up to full operating speed.

Intake Air Control Valve (IACV):
This normally closed valve is located in the intake system, just after the #2 compressor discharge. When this valve is in the closed position, boost is blocked from the #2 compressor, but more importantly, no backflow from #1 is possible which might cause #2 to spin backwards. Just after the EGCV is opened, the ECU energises the IACV VSV to open the IACV. This allows the full boost pressure from #2 compressor to join with boost coming from #1 compressor and the system is now operating in true twin turbo mode.

There is also a mechanical 1 way reed valve within the same housing of the IACV, and in parallel with it, which allows boost from #2 to enter the common manifold if its pressure is equal to, or greater than the #1 boost during prespool and the initial opening of the EGCV.

Here is the sequence of events from single to true twin turbo operation.

1. At idle the WG, EBV, EGCV and IACV valves are all closed.

2. From 1500 to 3500 RPM, and low loads, the above valves remain closed, and the system operates only on the #1 turbocharger. (Single mode)

3. Around 3500 RPM, the ECU will duty cycle the EBV open, and allow the #2 turbocharger to prespool. If/when #2’s boost pressure is high enough, the mechanical reed valve will open, allowing #2 boost to join #1 boost in the common system. (Transition mode).

4. As RPM’s and load increase, the EGCV will open, allowing more flow of exhaust gas from the #2 turbine. At about the same time, the IACV will also open, allowing the #2 compressor to flow into the intake system. Once the EGCV and IACV are both open, the two turbochargers are operating in True Twin mode, with (in theory again) equal exhaust and intake flows.

Boost pressure of the overall system is always controlled by the duty cycled VSV for the WG. Hope that helps, Dyna. :)
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Old 07-25-2005   #13
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Drifting info and techniques

Background

Drifting is a high-skill, high-powered motorsport that calls for drivers to control a 450hp car while it slides sideways at high speed through a marked course. It is similar to rally racing, but is done on a closed course and judged on execution and style rather than who finishes the course fastest. Drifting takes all the thrilling moments of traditional motorsports and packs it together into non-stop competition.

Today’s U.S.-based Formula Drift takes the excitement one step further by being the only drifting competition that features aggressive side-by-side action as finalists burn up the course two-at-a-time often only inches apart. Drifting pros finesse their cars into spectacular powerslides around a series of corners of a set course as powerful engines roar and the tires bellow smoke. The driver controls engine power, shifts gears and feathers the brake pedal, while at the same time spinning the steering wheel in a precise fashion from left to right linking corners with pinpoint accuracy. The driver is controlling and maneuvering the car beyond the limits of the tires’ traction.

History of the Sport

Drifting started in Japan approximately 10 years ago. Today, the extreme motorsport is so accepted and popular in the country, that drivers have become recognized celebrities. In time, drifting evolved into an organized series called the D1 Grand Prix in which top Japanese professional drivers compete in a series of events to determine the best drifter. Amateur drifting events take place in Europe, Australia and in the U.S.,

U.S.-based drifting has been an underground sport for the last 10 years but professional drifting has only taken off in the States recently. In Spring 2003, Irvine, Calif.-based Slipstream Global Marketing brought top professional Japanese drivers to the U.S. to participate in an exhibition competition to a sell out crowd at Southern California’s Irwindale Speedway. Within six months of the exhibition, which was nothing less than an electrifying debut, Slipstream Global Marketing, along with Yokohama Tire Corporation as title sponsor, brought the D1 Grand Prix All Star Invitational to the U.S. in its official debut appearance outside of Japan. The success of these events caused an explosion of interest in mainstream national media and further reinforced the interest and need for a North American competition, and in 2003 Formula Drift was founded by Slipstream to deliver sanctioned competitions of auto-crazed fans across the U.S.



Terms & Techniques Commonly Used in Drifting


Drift. Intentionallycausing a vehicle to exceed its tires’ limits of adhesion, exhibiting a lateral slip, resulting in an over steered condition.
Choku-Dori. A side-to-side, swaying drift typically used on straight-aways.
Counter Steer. Corrective steering used to balance and maintain an over steered condition. (Turning the steering wheel in the opposite direction of the turn once the vehicle starts to over steer).
Donut. Allowing the rear wheels of a vehicle to burn rubber, causing the car to rotate around the front tires.
Exhibition Drift. The purpose of drifting at the Drift Session is to cause maximum over steer in a vehicle while maintaining speed. Vehicles are not judged based on time trials or speed, but rather on the completion of clean and exaggerated drifts, that maintain a reasonable rate of speed. Exhibition Drifting also includes techniques such as one hand drifting, or trying to open the door while drifting. (Exhibition Drifting is motorsports showboating at its best).
Hachiroku or AE86. Literally translated “eight-six,” but commonly used as the name for the AE86, 1984-1987 Toyota Corolla GTS, which uses the DOHC 4-AG motor, rear wheel drive with limited slip differential.
Heel-Toe Shifting. A drifting technique in which the clutch is pressed with the left foot while the right foot presses the brake with the toes and the heel slides over to the accelerator to rev the engine up before downshifting the vehicle. This technique allows for smooth downshifting, without jolting the vehicle.
Limited Slip Differential (LSD). Axle gearing that allows power to be transferred to the wheel with the most traction. Similar to posi traction, which allows both power wheels to “lock up” and spin at the same time.
Off-Camber. "Off-Camber" describes the turns because the road slants away from the inside of the turn.
Over Steer. Over rotating a car while cornering. This may cause a vehicle to be on the verge of spinning out.
Powerslide. An American racing term for drifting that commonly refers to using excessive horsepower to cause a loss of traction resulting in a drift.
Silvia. Japanese version of the Nissan 240SX. Q or K versions. K version comes with the SR20-DET motor, turbocharged and intercooled.
Under Steer. A loss of traction in a vehicle’s front tires, caused by excessive speed in relation to a cornering angle, making a vehicle slide outwards during a turn.

DRIFT TECHNIQUES

Kansei Drift is performed at race speeds when, upon entering a high speed corner, a driver lifts his foot off the throttle to induce a mild over steer and then balances the drift through steering and throttle motions. Note that the car used for this style of drift should be a neutral balanced car so that the over steer will induce itself. If the car plows through any turn the technique will not work.
Braking drift is performed by tail braking into a corner, resulting in loss of grip and then balanced through steering and throttle motions. Note that this is mainly for medium to low speed corners.
Faint Drift is performed by rocking the car towards the outside of a turn and then using the rebound of grip to throw the car into the normal cornering direction. This is a rally racing technique used to change vehicle attitudes during cornering, mainly on tight mountain corners.
Clutch Kick is performed by depressing the clutch pedal on approach or during a mild drift, then popping the clutch to give a sudden jolt through the driveline to upset rear traction.
Shift Lock is performed by letting the revs drop on downshift into a corner and then releasing the clutch to put stress on the driveline to slow the rear tires, inducing an over steer. This is similar to pulling the E-brake through a turn and should be performed on wet surfaces to minimize damage to the driveline.
E-Brake Drift is a very basic technique in which the driver pulls the E-Brake (emergency-brake) to induce rear traction loss and balances the drift through steering and throttle play. Note that this can also be used to correct errors or fine tune drift angles.
Dirt Drop Drift is performed by dropping the rear tires off the road into the dirt to maintain or gain drift angle without losing power or speed and to set up for the next turn. Note that this technique is very useful for low horsepower cars.
Jump Drift is a technique in which the rear tire on the inside of a turn or apex is bounced over a curb to lose traction resulting in over steer.
Long Slide Drift is performed by pulling the E-brake through a straight to start a high angle drift and to holding this to set up for the turn ahead. Note that this can only be done at high speed.
Swaying Drift is a slow side-to-side, faint-like drift where the rear end sways back and forth down a straight.
FF Drift or front wheel drive drift is a technique in which the E-brake as well as steering and braking techniques are used to balance the car through a corner. Note that the E-brake is the main technique used to balance the drift.
Power Over is performed when entering a corner and using full throttle to produce heavy over.

I have found this info from various sources I do not take credit for all of this.
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Old 11-21-2005   #14
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Ok, this topic hasen't been posted in, in a while now so I'll start it back up with a little story I have from today.

Well, it all starts out with me coming back from somewhere and of course, a random Civic comes out of no where and decides he has a fast car. If you listened to this thing, there was exhaust work done, ONLY. Just exhaust, maybe a cold air intake but that's it and this little f-ck wanted to race me.

Anyway, he decided he wanted to race me at the red light we weer both stopped at so he looks at me and revs his ricer engie. Hearing how crappy his sh-T sounded, I gladly accepted knowing what the outcome would be. The light turned green and I took off from him. After that, he was just another car in my rear view mirror. So I feel sorry for the guy and I slow back down to 60mph and he pulls up next to me on the road and wants to try again from a rolling 60 start. He didn't even notify me or anything, he just started to try and take off. I noticed that he was trying to get a jump start on me so I just downshifted into 3rd and I was well on my way past him in just that gear. He didn't try anymore. I slowed up again and he wouldn't even pull up next to me anymore, just drifted behind me. I couldn't stop laughing so I randomly threw on my hazzard lights and drove in front of him like that until he turned off.

There is a moral to this story. Don't bring your rice-mobile up to me and think you can beat a stock Ford Ranger. Just wait until my warranty is up and I get the supercharger I have been looking at!
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Old 12-16-2005   #15
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I'm trying to bring this topic back from the dead because I love discussing cars so lets make something here. If you had a $16,000 to buy a stock car and another $5,000 to buy and install any mod you wanted onto it, what would it be and what would your stock to final HP and torque be? Let's see who can get the highest output from their car (without tuning.) Try to post all of your parts bought and used and how much HP/torque you get from each and how much it costs. This could take some time finding the parts and adding up everything but it could be fun.

Please people, do it!


EX:
CAR
Cost

1) Part One: (URL OF YOUR PART)
HP/Torque increase
Cost


2) Part Two: (URL OF YOUR PART)
HP/Torque increase
Cost






You get the idea. Now let's get this show on the road!
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Old 12-16-2005   #16
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Sounds like fun. I'll edit my post after I find what's needed.
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Of course, in typical American fashion, I have no solution to suggest but have no problem pointing out the problem as I see it.
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Old 12-16-2005   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The mOBSCENE
Ok, this topic hasen't been posted in, in a while now so I'll start it back up with a little story I have from today.

Well, it all starts out with me coming back from somewhere and of course, a random Civic comes out of no where and decides he has a fast car. If you listened to this thing, there was exhaust work done, ONLY. Just exhaust, maybe a cold air intake but that's it and this little f-ck wanted to race me.

Anyway, he decided he wanted to race me at the red light we weer both stopped at so he looks at me and revs his ricer engie. Hearing how crappy his sh-T sounded, I gladly accepted knowing what the outcome would be. The light turned green and I took off from him. After that, he was just another car in my rear view mirror. So I feel sorry for the guy and I slow back down to 60mph and he pulls up next to me on the road and wants to try again from a rolling 60 start. He didn't even notify me or anything, he just started to try and take off. I noticed that he was trying to get a jump start on me so I just downshifted into 3rd and I was well on my way past him in just that gear. He didn't try anymore. I slowed up again and he wouldn't even pull up next to me anymore, just drifted behind me. I couldn't stop laughing so I randomly threw on my hazzard lights and drove in front of him like that until he turned off.

There is a moral to this story. Don't bring your rice-mobile up to me and think you can beat a stock Ford Ranger. Just wait until my warranty is up and I get the supercharger I have been looking at!
Good story mOB. I was on the highway the other day and my friend with his truck jumped in front of me and took off up the high speed lane. I followed him and when I realized he was alone in the high speed lane I moved over and gunned it past him he was a little shocked to see my car fly by his and jump in front of him.
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Old 12-19-2005   #18
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Sorry I won't be able to get around to the car contest (I guess that is a good way of describing what you wanted to do) until the end of this week. I have four finals on Wednesday and one on Thursday so I am going to be hella busy this week. I'll do some research on Friday I suppose and post by saturday.
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Bench Press: 5x5 @ 255 (11/9/08 )
Dead Lifts: 3x8 @ 250
Lateral Raise: 8 reps at 45lbs
GOW2: Can't get passed level 34 on Horde (2.0 difficulty) or level 18 (Insane difficulty)
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Of course, in typical American fashion, I have no solution to suggest but have no problem pointing out the problem as I see it.
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Old 01-26-2006   #20
 
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Hey well, I just got into all the Racing thing because of my friends and their car club. There are a Few Ricers, about 3, but the rest aren't. I want to get a Spec V and put a Turbo kit in it. The thing is , I am not too familiar with Stick Shift Transmission(Manual). Can you guys show me how to do some manuevers. I mean i know how to shift gears and im kinda trying to do the Downshifting but i dont quite understand it. So if you can post the techniques in a Step-by-Step format it would be great.
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